The mythical wines of Egon Müller, German treasure!
Nez minéral sur herbes fraiches, bouche rafraîchissante de pêches et d'abricots assortie d'une texture souple sur une acidité élégante et fine.
L'équilibre est remarquable.
Un vin de plaisir absolu !
Egon Müller IV shares with the Burgundian Louis Latour special to wear the same first name as his father and his grandfather. Family tradition that identifies the field and the one who runs it. It is the fifth generation on the Scharzhofberg vineyard, his ancestor Jean-Jacques Koch who created the area in 1797. It is a historic date: Napoleon has launched the campaign ofItaly, defeated the Pope, fleeced the Vatican and installed in the areas that he has already conquered the laws of the Republic, including the nationalization of the possessions of the Church (the especially land). This is the case in the Moselle and the Saar, today Land (province) of Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany.
Jean-Jacques Koch bought as a national asset, a hill, the Scharzberg, which could be translated into french in the past by the "mountain of essarts", these naming places in our ancient language cleared... It is conducive to the vine hectares 20 but not to trade. Isolated from all important way of communication, it perfectly illustrates what was already saying in 1600 the agronomist Olivier de Serres: "if aren't in place to sell your wine, what would you do with a large vineyard?" The answer in this case was: wait. Jean-Jacques Koch had a great intuition? Without doubt, because far from everything, on a height varying between 200 and 300 metres, in the relatively cold climate, no one thought that it would reap the most expensive wines of riesling in the world. As the railroad that allowed to "connect" the region came here in the second half of the 19th century.
A daughter of Koch married a Müller, who bore an Egon, first name. But he also had other children, who divided the 20 hectares of the vineyard. Thus the origin domain covers longer than 8.5 hectares. But Egon Müller remains the largest owner in Scharzhofberg, even if recently plots, more or less similar, were attached to this wine, raising it to 28 hectares... The historical part is composed of Shales disaggregated in depth, where the bedrock is nowhere. These soils have the characteristic of a water reserve, capable of powering the vine even during periods of extended drought. No jolts, no blocking, a long maturity with cool nights that preserve the aromas. A good acidity has also, which makes balancing wines that climb high in sugars, much more than our sauternes and monbazillac. Sometimes more than 400 grams per liter for alcohol of (6)...
But the great thing about wines from Egon Müller, is precisely what sommeliers call the "drinkability". It's not a nice word; It would more resemble the cry of a cold frog, but it is a good "spoken description", as said Françoise Rosay (the cellar's problem). These wines, aromatic concentration, high in sugar, especially rare vintages, know no heaviness, but fall into the category of elegant large, as are another kind Petrus or the Romanée-Conti. Very great wines can never speak by force but in delicacy and refinement... In Germany, the ranking of the wines takes place based on the rate of sugar. Simply put, what fits our AOC is called the Prädikatswein (special quality wine). Breast, for whites, there are several categories, starting with dry wines, so-called Kabinett; then come the Spätlese (slightly later harvest); then the Auslese (still more), Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese. The latter category could translate into "wines from dried berries"...
There is no tradition of wines of this type in this region. It was Egon Müller, the father of the current, which developed the first in 1959, a particularly hot and dry year in Germany but also in France, where this vintage is part of the pantheon in Bordeaux, Alsace and Burgundy. Of course, this bottle is about not found and would reach heights in a sale at auction. It is besides, annually, that Egon Müller sets its prices. Not owing to that of 1959, but relying on prices obtained by its last harvest offered for sale during a traditional auction which is not far from that of the Hospices de Beaune. Created in the early 20th century in the city of Trier, puts the Grosser Ring auction wines Punkt producers (in name), at least those interested. Soon German Egon Müller wine lovers arise and are pushing up prices to heights that make dream the winemakers of Alsace, Layon or Sauternes. As the area offers this sale as a part of its production. The rest will be sparingly marketed at the rate determined by the Grosser Ring...
|Type of products||Wines|
|Cuvee's name||Scharzhof Riesling|
|Title supplement||Mosel AOP|
|Capacity||75 cl bottle|
|Sweetness index||1 Dry|
|Main style||Fruity - Floral|
|Main grape variety||Riesling|
|Consumption recommendation||2015 à 2030|